魅影缝匠

一个很无奈的事实是，笔者至今都没能找到一个真正适合“Phantom Thread”的中文译名，“霓裳魅影”或许听起来很优雅，但多少有些自说自话，而“魅影缝匠”则是一个在文法和意境方面都相当拙劣的选择。

之所以谈到译名，是因为英文片名“Phantom Thread”在某种程度上可以在真正意义上反映本片的主题。因为虽然看起来，本片可能是导演保罗托马斯安德森（以下简称PTA）职业生涯中最通俗易懂的作品，他既放弃了自己擅长的繁琐的叙事线索（如《不羁夜》、《木兰花》、《性本恶》），亦将中后期作品中晦涩隐忍的终极归宿讨论束之高阁（如《大师》、《血色将至》），连小格局作品中的反类型桥段都被放弃（如《赌场纵横》、《恋爱失调》），但看完全片，《Phantom Thread》其实仍是一部典型的PTA电影。

一个有意思的现实是，《Phantom Thread》很像是《大师》的一个变体：被偶然发掘信徒（从属者、佣人）在自我觉醒的过程中开始用自己强势的一面来颠覆原有的人物关系，只不过《大师》中弗雷迪的觉醒更加彻底，但在《Phantom Thread》中，阿尔玛却渐渐爱上了控制别人的感觉，或者可以说在本片中，伍德科克和阿尔玛一同发现了自己生活的新可能，而这种新可能，最终被证明是要相互依靠对方才能够实现的。

因此，“Thread”可能指的是让两人的生活交织在一起的那种纤细的联系，而“Phantom”则是本片不断被强化的“诅咒”、“幽灵”的一种主题印证，在伍德科克第一次中毒之后，他率先看了母亲的幻影，他也第一次显露出自己的脆弱、犹疑的源头。根据之前的叙述，这源头给了他无穷的创作欲望，却也时常让他陷入苦闷，而当强势的阿尔玛开始通过自己的手腕实现对伍德科克的掌控之际，母亲的“Phantom”从此退出了故事，换言之，阿尔玛已经成为了伍德科克的新“Phantom”。在新年夜，伍德科克发现了这种蜕变，他惊讶、不安、愤怒，可是无能为力，但在影片结尾，伍德科克最终淡然接受。

在这个角度看，《Phantom Thread》的确为观众给出了一个封闭性结局，而在PTA以往的作品中，他习惯将问题留给观众，就像我们不敢确信《大师》中的弗雷迪是否被治愈，《血色将至》中的利用上帝的一干人等最终是否会得到宽恕。于此，阿尔玛在电影结尾处的那段“胜利宣言”像极了《不羁夜》结尾处沃尔伯格的自我激励，而从《不羁夜》到《Phantom Thread》，PTA似乎终于放弃了对于终极真相的偏执追求，习惯了在十拿九稳的匠人语境中完成一个封闭主题的单线故事。

这点在电影中最直接的表现就是，《Phantom Thread》中的一切都被处理的传统、妥当、低调。《木兰花》、《性本恶》中野心勃勃的旁白和《大师》、《血色将至》中激情澎湃的枭雄式表演都被摒弃。戏份吃重的两位主演尽力让自己的表演被整体摄影效果所收纳，盖因奥斯卡式锋芒毕露的独角戏表演不是本片所需要的。因为毕竟在更多时候，《Phantom Thread》的优秀在于一种氛围表现，伍德科克的自负、脆弱，阿尔玛被挖掘时的兴奋，掌控大局之后的自信都被出色的展示，不过PTA无意对人物动机和结局做出评价，他更多关心的是这种展现如何被观众更好的接受，比起《木兰花》时期的直抒胸臆和《性本恶》中的讳莫如深，这其实是一位导演成熟和自信的表现。

因为在掌控优势资源之后，成熟的导演会努力将资源调配到最佳，而非不加节制的展示，在《性本恶》中，或许是出于对于原著作者托马斯品钦的崇拜，PTA在一些场景中过分的强调情节和原著的契合，让电影显得有些散漫。也许在一些影迷看来，这种“风格化”的散漫是PTA的另一种优势，但在《Phantom Thread》中，这种略显过度的表现已经被彻底放弃，PTA没有武断向观众抛出任何问题或定论，也没有试图用大量的信息式情节提醒观众电影的主题走向。于是电影的浪漫和震撼都是在水到渠成之后自然生成的，所以，其实本片的“不晦涩”很大程度上来自于PTA对于电影语言自信平稳的掌控，因为当情感被有效传达的之后，再严苛观众也不会在乎这种移情背后是否拥有所谓的固有逻辑，相反，这种对“动机可信程度”、“剧情因果逻辑”过度的依赖恰恰是多数好莱坞商业电影千篇一律的源头。以这个角度看，《Phantom Thread》或许可以和《大师》、《血色将至》一起成为PTA迄今为止在导演技法上最成功的作品之一。

尽管对于热爱《不羁夜》、《木兰花》、《性本恶》的影迷来说，《Phantom Thread》可能是一部略显匠气的电影，毕竟它既没有天才式的大开大合，也没有质问天地的狂傲不羁，但本片的优点也恰恰正是来源于此，在这样一部有关亲密关系的电影中，作为编剧和导演的PTA，有可能为观众奉献出了其职业生涯中最个人化的一部电影：伍德科克勇敢的吞噬了毒药，这一刻他的无畏与怯懦被刘易斯在波澜不惊中奇迹般的粘合在了一起，而薇姬克里普斯则如同电影中的角色一样，娴熟的让人物褪去的乡下女孩的外表，将人物的强大表现的魅力四射且极具说服力，堪称本片的点睛之笔。此外，暴戾的性格冲突和戏剧张力只有在人物看似不经意的细节中才能稍稍溢出，平稳的镜头视角和剪辑努力减少一切喧宾夺主的表现方式，阿尔玛杂糅在暗黄色烛光中的旁白自信的隐藏着自己作为胜利者的强大与欣喜若狂，如同站在镜头后面的PTA，小心翼翼的践行着自己的狂风骤雨，将致命的浪漫强压在雍容华贵的节奏之中。

【关于电影主题】


原文链接：//www.rollingstone.com/movies/features/paul-thomas-anderson-on-phantom-thread-daniel-day-lewiss-retirement-w514196

You've said that the conception for this really started when you were sick one day in bed – how did you go from that to a romance between a fashion designer and his model?
[Laughs] I think that's a long leap between a lot of stones!

Walk us through this.
So yes, I was sick and my wife [actress Maya Rudolph] was taking care of me. And my imagination just took over at some point, where I had this thought: "Oh, she is looking at me with such care and tenderness ... wouldn't it suit her to keep me sick in this state?" I don't know a lot about that disorder, Munchausen [symdrome] by proxy – that's too hot for me to handle. But that moment was enough to ... it gave me an idea that such a thing could be served up with some spark of mischievousness and humor that might, in a larger picture, lend itself to what it means to be in a long-term relationship, you know. And the balance of power that can happen in that. Not just in a creative relationship either – how men and women interact isn't exclusive to an artist and his muse or shit like that.
PTA在采访里谈到想拍这种题材的原因：某天PTA生病了，躺在床上胡思乱想，妻子Maya Rudolph（喜剧演员）照顾着他，用很温柔的眼光看着他。看到妻子这样子，PTA心想：在这种情况下，让我不舒服是不是适合她？
虽然那时PTA在发高烧，但是这给了他灵感，伴随着一点点的恶作剧和幽默，来适应长期的（婚姻）关系；婚姻中双方相互制衡，这是关于男女双方如何互动而不仅仅是艺术家和他的缪斯这种特殊例子。

原文链接： //www.gq.com/story/the-dark-optimism-of-paul-thomas-anderson


Anderson pictured a man like that: complicated, unyielding, fanatical. What might happen if that man, who'd spent his life meeting and discarding women, met one who turned out, however improbably, to be his match? He was thinking about Hitchcock's Rebecca, in which Joan Fontaine enters into a marriage with a domineering man, played by Laurence Olivier, that is not what it seems. Anderson wondered: "What if halfway through Rebecca, Joan Fontaine said, You know, I've had enough of your shit?" Anderson cast the steely British actress Lesley Manville as Woodcock's sister, a character who provides another echo of Rebecca, in which traces of the man's past life and old loves keep bursting ominously through.

Fashion, like prospecting for oil, was not an obvious subject for Anderson, who's been wearing the same rumpled white dress shirt since the '90s. But, he said, "you just gotta start listening to the airwaves a little bit." On a trip to India, he saw a photo of the Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga in an airport. "That coincided with a conversation I had had a couple weeks before about Beau Brummell," the 19th-century Englishman who is credited with inventing the modern men's suit. "And I had had in my pocket a story between a man and a woman where the dynamic was about power—the power shift between a strong-willed man and a woman." Day-Lewis would play the man. Vicky Krieps, a relatively unknown actress from Luxembourg, would play the woman, Alma. Anderson began reading more about Balenciaga, who, he said, had "taste, skill, talent. The full package. He could sew a button on a dress. He could make the most complicated dress. He had that level of skill." Most important for the character of Woodcock, Anderson said, "he was protective of his work."

After we first met, Anderson and I began exchanging e-mails. In one back-and-forth, we discussed how certain things in his work recur. Like nearly every other Anderson film, Phantom Thread is at heart about a blended family who can barely stand each other, but at the same time need one another—Woodcock and Alma are in love, or they hate each other; Manville's character, Woodcock's sister, Cyril, is in some ways even more unforgiving than either, but she's also the one who teaches them how to survive. Like Boogie Nights' Dirk Diggler, Woodcock's character is shaped by a now absent mother and blessed with one special talent that leads him toward both doom and salvation; like Punch-Drunk Love's Barry Egan, Woodcock wants to be loved but has no idea how to ask. At its center, Phantom Thread is about a wounded man who finds it nearly impossible to bridge the gap between himself and everyone else. "It's what flows out of me," Anderson said, by way of explanation, or lack of one. "Turn on the faucet and that's what comes out."



PTA想制作一部蝴蝶梦那样的电影（但并不像《蝴蝶梦》），简而言之，就是一个有才华和控制欲的男人，终于遇到一个可以和他抗衡的女人，两人相爱也相互憎恨。



原文链接：//theplaylist.net/paul-thomas-anderson-phantom-thread-20171215/
I hear that, but I find it very, very different from “Rebecca.”
It’s very different and that’s a good thing, it’s not at all meant to be a homage. I mean, that’s your greatest fear when you’re inspired by something. I spent a long time trying to mimic things and then you sort of realize, “What if I tried to do something else that came more from me?”

Sometimes when you mimic something, it comes out all wrong in the best way possible.
For sure. You don’t want to be a Xerox machine.
PTA表示phantom thread并不是为了致敬《蝴蝶梦》，《蝴蝶梦》带给他灵感，但是他并不是复印机，他不是要模仿《蝴蝶梦》。



原文链接：http://news.mtime.com/2018/02/08/1578056-2.html#content

   保罗·托马斯·安德森：我觉得丹尼尔那天说的话很对，他说服装和追求者真的没有什么关系。他想说的是我们知道我们想要拍摄一部什么样的电影——一部关于一个男人和一个女人的电影。

        这是一部爱情片，看一段浪漫的爱情如何与家庭关系相契合。所以我们对故事大概有了一个想法，有了需要（身体和情感）的概念——当你卧病在床时你看着某人并意识到你需要他们，这意味着什么；当你健康的时候，你的性格一成不变，就好像你不需要任何人一样。


《霓裳魅影》始终应该都是围绕这个男人和一个女人之间的感情，任何其他事情都只是为了支撑这个故事。所以任何时候我都会因为其他事情变得很兴奋，丹尼尔、乔安妮和迪伦都非常的棒，他们都确保让我回归主线。



【男主与女主、姐姐的关系】
原文链接：//www.rollingstone.com/movies/features/paul-thomas-anderson-on-phantom-thread-daniel-day-lewiss-retirement-w514196

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cEtLfYOEIU

http://emanuellevy.com/review/featured-review/phantom-thread-paul-thomas-anderson-about-his-collaboration-with-daniel-day-lewis/


Let's talk about the relationship between Cyril and Reynolds – how different was it on the page versus what we see onscreen?
You know what you can't write? Just how comfortable those two are are sitting together in silence. You can give them dialogue that indicates just how close and co-dependent they are. But I think if you just filmed Daniel and Lesley, you would get a feeling of intimacy between them, just because of their natural comfort with each other. What we did – in hindsight very intelligently, I might add – was to get Lesley on board like nine months before. We sort of saw the horizon line and knew that, this is an actress that's booked up. We want her to do this. We better ask her now.

The side benefit of that was that she had time to think about it, to get to talking about it with Daniel so they could cook up whatever delicious long, sordid history they can cook up. And with them, no way that doesn't come to the table. She is one of the greatest actors I have ever worked with. I mean, just a fucking joy to watch. I had a front row seat and would be on-set, wide-eyed, everyday thinking, "Is she fucking putting me on? Is she really this good?" What's that Bad Santa line? [Goes into angry Billy Bob Thornton voice] "Goddamit, are you fucking with me?" [Laughs] There was a lot of that.


There’s definitely, the rules that he has, even the rules probably have rules and those rules are governed by other rules. And it’s just a very spoiled way of living and it’s probably the kind of thing that is granted to an artist, a designer like this, which generally they are given what they want. They are given a house to behave as they want as long as they continue to provide the designs and things like that, that they are allowed to act like the worst kind of children really. And I would imagine that growing up, he was spoiled by his mother and that the sister was absolutely marginalized and told that she wasn’t good enough but she was good enough to run the business and that she should be in charge of it. And that was the dynamic that we dreamed up and hopefully is clear in the film.


男主和姐姐Cyril亲密无间，男主自小被母亲宠坏，姐姐Cyril自小被边缘化，被告知她不如弟弟优秀，但是她可以作为两人生意的主管人。
电影主要以女主作为叙事主体，她取名为Alma（拉丁文的意思是滋养、养育）的一个原因，是她想成为男主的感情支柱，她称男主 a "hungry boy"（饥饿的男孩），并滋养他。Alma不希望代替男主的姐姐或者去世的母亲的位置，而是想成为和男主的爱情中的唯一。

原文链接：//thefilmstage.com/features/lesley-manville-on-the-power-dynamics-in-phantom-thread-deleted-scenes-and-ptas-humor/
I spoke with Vicky Krieps and she said there’s an opening of the film that was shot but wasn’t used, with her character at a church and you realize her mother had passed away. It was stuff we don’t see, but it helped her form the character. When it comes to your character, was there stuff you shot or talked about that helped you form Cyril?
There was only really one scene that of mine that was lost. I mean, Christ, along the way Paul lost a lot of little subplots. A lot. There’s a lot of woman coming to the couture house that had gone. All sorts of minor, not major, but minor subplots that ended up going. He did cut one scene with Vicky and I which was kind of halfway through the relationship of getting to know each other when Cyril starts to see that this relationship with Reynolds is slightly more serious than most of the other woman that have been in his life. It was in the country house and Alma finds his mother’s wedding dress that Reynolds thinks he lost. Because Reynolds says, “I don’t know where it is know. It’s probably ashes.” Actually, Cyril had kept it, but hadn’t told Reynolds. Alma finds the dress and they have a kind of strange conversation about this wedding dress and then Cyril asks her to keep it quiet from Reynolds that she’s still got it. But that went, and I could see why it would go, because actually you get that Cyril is warming to Alma just through the way Cyril is looking at her and smiling at her.

其实电影有一段戏是Alma在男主Reynolds的旧房子发现了他为母亲缝制的婚纱，这条婚纱Reynolds以为已经遗失其实是被姐姐Cyril藏起来了，Cyril告诉Alma不要让Reynolds知道，然后说了预告的那一句 May I warn you of something, my brother can feel cursed, that love is doomed for him .然后Alma表示理解。这场戏因为时长问题被删掉了，但这是两人关系变好的证明，Cyril在电影后段对Reynolds说我挺喜欢Alma，就是这个原因。

【关于"game"】
原文链接 ：//www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cEtLfYOEIU

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn0jUdBxKlo

Reynolds一直希望这段“爱情长跑比赛”能出现可以和他抗衡的“对手”，Alma不是那种唯唯诺诺的女孩，她敢于和Reynolds对抗，这是Reynolds所渴望的。


【关于毒蘑菇】
原文链接： http://emanuellevy.com/review/featured-review/phantom-thread-paul-thomas-anderson-about-his-collaboration-with-daniel-day-lewis/

PTA: I think you should take the mushrooms very literally and not metaphorically. I don’t think that she wanted to kill him, but I think that she recognized in this man who was incredibly self-obsessed and impossible to break through, that in his moments of weakness, he was vulnerable and he was generous and he was open. And logic would lead her to think, well how could I possibly recreate some of those moments? Maybe with a small amount of mushrooms I can put him flat on his back, and I can kind of reset him and bring him back down and to try to rekindle our romance that way. It’s a very peculiar way of going about things, but it worked. And I never thought as specifically as something like Asperger’s, but he is definitely not like everybody else.

原文链接：http://www.chicagotribune.com/entertainment/movies/ct-mov-paul-thomas-anderson-phantom-thread-interview-0110-story.html

Q: What I love about the first strategic poisoning in the film is that you don’t really know what Alma’s intentions are — if they’re lethal, or just punitive.

A: Exactly right (laughs). You, know, it’s just a thimbleful, so … we shot some good close-ups we ended up taking out that made her intentions a little clearer. She’s looking at the mushroom book and you see the words “not lethal,” and “extreme stomach pain,” that kind of thing.

PTA已经在电影里给了暗示，有个镜头是女主在翻查书籍，找一些“不会致命，而是导致疼痛的蘑菇”。
女主下毒并非是想杀死男主，因为男主只有在生病的时候才变得坦率真诚，所以女主想着让男主吃下一点点毒蘑菇让他生病，然后她就可以照顾他让他变得坦率，两人就可以重燃他们之间的浪漫情怀。这种逻辑虽然古怪，但是男主和女主都并非是一般意义上的正常人，这种方法反而有效。